How to Use Hammer Drill on Concrete | Drill Into Concrete Right

For the full breakdown, see our best Concrete Hammer Drill guide.

Knowing how to use a hammer drill on concrete saves time, spares your bits, and produces cleaner holes. The key is letting the tool’s hammer action do the breaking while you guide it steadily. This guide covers the equipment, steps, and mistakes to avoid.

What Equipment Do You Need?

Corded models deliver consistent power for longer jobs, while high-voltage cordless options (20V and above) offer mobility for smaller tasks. The bit is equally critical: only carbide-tipped masonry bits can cut concrete. Common sizes for anchor holes range from 3/16 inch to 1/2 inch, which a standard hammer drill handles best.

Match the bit to your drill’s chuck type. A keyless chuck tightens by hand — turn counterclockwise to open, insert the bit, then clockwise to secure it. A keyed chuck requires a small chuck key: insert it and turn counterclockwise to open the jaws, place the bit, then clockwise to tighten. Ensure the bit is centered and firmly locked.

Set the drill to hammer mode, marked with a hammer icon or the word “hammer.” This combines rotation with rapid percussion that breaks concrete. Use the adjustable speed settings to start at the lowest speed for control, then increase gradually.

Safety gear is non-negotiable: safety goggles, ear protection, gloves, and a dust mask (or respirator) for fine silica dust. Before drilling, use a center punch or large nail to create a small indent — this prevents the bit from skating on the smooth surface.

How to Drill Into Concrete Step by Step

1. Mark and indent the spot. After measuring, tap a center punch or 16-penny nail with a hammer to create a shallow divot.
2. Set the drilling depth. Use the depth stop rod, or wrap painter’s tape around the bit at the measured depth.
4. Activate hammer mode and drill. Apply steady, moderate pressure — let the hammer action break the concrete. Keep the drill perpendicular to the surface.
5. Clear dust every 10–15 seconds. Pull the bit out while spinning to clear debris.
6. Let the bit cool. After every 20–30 seconds of drilling, pause to let the bit cool.
7. Withdraw the bit slowly. Pull the bit out while spinning to clear remaining dust and prevent binding.

Common Mistakes That Ruin Your Hole

• Pressing too hard. The hammer mechanism breaks concrete — pressing harder risks snapping the bit and overheating the motor.
• Skipping the pilot hole. A full-size bit on bare concrete wanders off your mark. The 30 seconds it takes saves minutes of frustration.
• Hitting rebar or plumbing. If you see sparks or feel sudden resistance, stop. Move your hole at least two inches away, or switch to a rebar-cutting bit.
• Using the wrong bit type. Only carbide-tipped masonry bits are hard enough for concrete.
• Neglecting dust removal. Concrete powder compacts and blocks progress. Clear frequently.

A standard hammer drill is for holes up to about 1/2 inch in diameter. For larger holes or dense concrete, a rotary hammer with SDS bits is the appropriate tool.