How to Make Golf Club Head Covers | DIY Sewing Patterns

For the full breakdown, see our best Golf Club Head Covers guide.

Game-ready custom covers cost as much as a solid yardage finder, while a homemade version runs a fraction of that. The trick is matching the right pattern to your skill level — a quilted slip-on takes an afternoon and a sewing machine, while the sock-and-stuffed-animal hack needs only a needle and thread. Below is the step order that works, the exact material sizes, and what to do when a piece doesn’t fit the first time.

The Quilted Slip-On: Materials and Dimensions That Fit

A quilted driver cover needs one outer fabric rectangle (16 inches by 11 inches), a 6-inch square for the top, and a matching fleece or flannel lining. The elastic band for a driver measures 5-1/2 inches; fairway woods use 4 inches. A 1/2-inch seam allowance keeps the top from warping when sewn to the body.

A single PDF pattern — the “Easy Slip-on Headcover Sewing Pattern” ($12) or the “Contoured Golf Club Headcover Sewing Pattern” — provides the templates. Thin flat elastic runs $3–$8 for a roll; quilted cotton or pieced fabric works for the outer shell. Home machines handle quilted cotton well; faux leather or thick trim may need an industrial model.

Step-by-Step: How to Sew the Slip-On Cover

The Create Whimsy method produces a clean, machine-washable cover in six stages:

1. Cut the quilted fabric and fleece lining to size. Trim the main body panels to taper slightly and round the edges of the top square.
2. Sew the elastic to the wrong side of the lining using a zigzag stitch set to 5mm width. Use a 20mm flat stitch for back-stitching at start and end.
3. Sew the side seams on both the outer and lining fabrics separately.
4. Place the lining inside the outer fabric with right sides together, sew the lower edge, then topstitch.
5. Sew the top piece to the body.
6. Finish the internal seams with a zigzag or overcast stitch to prevent fraying.

Two Alternative Methods (No Machine Required)

For a zero-cost project, convert a sock and a small stuffed animal into a cover. Cut the sock toe off, turn it inside out, and remove the stuffing from the plush toy. Fold the sock foot over the animal, sew the animal’s opening to the sock above the ankle with two reinforced loops, refill the animal leaving room for the club head, then sew the sock toe shut. The animal head sits on the grip; the sock forms the shaft sleeve.

Hand-sewers with a bit more patience can try a faux leather slip-on. Back-stitch both ends. This method produces a slick, logo-ready cover but stresses home machine needles on thick material — an industrial machine avoids the snap risk.

What Goes Wrong and How to Fix It

Three issues bite first-time makers hardest. The top piece is too large or too small: if the top is too big, fold both the top and body in half, clip the right sides with WonderClips, and trim the excess. If the top is too small, cut a fresh top — do not trim the body, or the whole cover shrinks. The elastic will not stretch far enough: cut a slightly longer piece and test it against the lining circumference before sewing. The sock folds incorrectly: keep the sock’s outside facing out during folding; folding the foot end wrong side out forces a do-over because the finished cover’s exterior is on the inside.