How to Install a Commercial Can Opener | Solid Mount, Sharp Cut

Whether installing an Edlund #1 Old Reliable or a Garde standard-duty unit rated for 15 cans per day, the process is the same: mount the base to a solid surface, lock the body in place, and test the cut. Get these steps right and the opener will work all day without jamming or damaging the blade. For model selection, see our tested roundup of the best commercial can openers comparing top models for different workloads.

What Your Mounting Surface Needs

The opener’s base must sit on a surface that does not flex. Stainless steel and thick butcher block absorb piercing force well. Thin sheet metal, particleboard, or hollow-core tables cause rocking and loosened fasteners. You get two plated steel screws; mount the base directly to the countertop. Choose a spot where the handle clears walls or tall appliances when rotated clockwise.

Tools needed:

• Drill with a bit sized for the included screws
• Measuring tape or ruler
• Level (optional)

How to Install the Base and Body

1. Mount the base. Mark screw holes, drill pilot holes, and drive screws until the base is flush with no rocking—looseness is the most common cause of poor cutting.

2. Lift the handle to unlock. Raise the handle fully to unlock the square hole. Attempting to seat the body with the handle down can bend the locking tab.

3. Seat the fuselage. Lower the body into the square hole with the knife blade facing forward. Push down until no gap remains between body and base. The blade must align with the can’s center line.

4. Check for smooth movement. Lower and lift the handle; it should swing freely with no binding. If it drags, remove the body, check the base is level, and retighten screws.

Testing the Cut and Avoiding Damage

Test with a No. 10 can. Lift the handle, jab firmly to pierce the lid, lower it to lock, and rotate clockwise. The gear should drive smoothly without skipping or chattering. Edlund’s manual specifies checking the knife-to-gear gap using gauge EFG-30. Too wide and the blade skips; too tight and it binds.

The most costly mistake: never remove a can while the handle is down. Always lift the handle to unlock first. Forcing a can out bends the blade and can crack the gear housing—the fastest way to destroy an opener.

For routine maintenance—removing the two screws on the knife holder, flipping or replacing the blade—clean all metal parts with a dry cloth immediately after washing. Soaking causes rust. Install any replacement gear with the side marked UP facing upward.

In humid conditions, inspect for yellowing or corrosion. The blade may be dishwasher-safe per your manual, but gear and knife must be dried immediately after water contact.

The Edlund #1 Old Reliable manual covers these steps in detail, including gap gauge and blade replacement.

FAQs

Can I mount a commercial can opener on a standard kitchen counter?

Yes, if the counter is solid and does not flex. Stainless steel, butcher block, and thick laminate over plywood work. Thin or hollow-core counters need reinforcement.

What size cans does a commercial can opener handle?

Most manual models, including Edlund #1 and Garde standard-duty, handle No. 1 through No. 10 cans. Verify No. 10 compatibility before purchase.

How do I clean a commercial can opener without causing rust?

Remove the blade for cleaning (check manual for dishwasher safety). Dry knife, gear, and metal parts immediately. Never soak parts; inspect regularly in humid conditions.