How to Cut Trees with a Chainsaw | Fall Them Safely

Felling a tree is the most dangerous routine job a chainsaw can do. The saw itself is only half the risk — the real danger is a tree that falls where you didn’t plan. The safe sequence for cutting trees with a chainsaw is simple to learn and takes practice to execute well: assess the tree, clear the area, cut a notch toward the fall direction, then make a back cut that leaves a hinge to steer the tree down.

Before You Start: Assess the Tree and Site

Walk around the tree before you start the saw. Check which way it leans, where the heavy branches hang, and which direction the wind is pushing. Look up for dead limbs and look down for uneven ground that could make the trunk kick or roll after it lands.

Confirm the tree can physically reach the ground in a clear area. If it leans toward a house, power line, or road, stop and call a professional. The USDA Forest Service and state extensions are unanimous: leaning, hung-up, and storm-damaged trees are higher-risk jobs that often require advanced training.

Never cut alone. Mississippi State Extension is blunt that you should not operate a chainsaw when tired or impaired, and never work from a ladder or in the tree unless you have specific training and equipment.

The Safe Felling Sequence, Step by Step

Every official guide describes the same core notch-and-back-cut method for cutting trees with a chainsaw. The goal is control: the notch tells the tree where to go, and the hinge wood left by the back cut slows and steers the fall.

• Clear the work zone. Remove brush and debris around the trunk. Plan two escape routes leading back and away at roughly 45° from the fall line — never straight back, since the trunk can kick backward off the stump.
• Cut the notch (undercut) on the side facing the fall direction. Make the top cut angled down at about 45°–70°, then make the horizontal bottom cut to meet it. Remove the wedge of wood. The notch should reach roughly one-quarter to one-third of the trunk’s diameter.
• Make the back cut on the opposite side, slightly above the notch’s hinge point. Stop cutting before you reach the hinge — the uncut strip of wood is what controls the fall. Do not cut through it.
• Retreat the moment the tree moves. Shut the saw off and move along your escape route, watching the canopy as you go. The tree can shift, and branches can break loose.

A common beginner error is starting the back cut too low, which removes control of the fall. Another is cutting straight through the trunk, leaving no hinge at all — that makes the fall direction a guess. When the tree is down, limb it from the base toward the top, keeping the trunk between you and the saw where possible.

Chainsaw Safety Gear and Operating Rules

Before the first cut, OSHA says to check the controls, chain tension, bolts, and handles, and confirm the saw is the right size for the job. A functioning chain brake is non-negotiable, and the chain needs to be sharp — a dull chain forces you to push harder, which is how control is lost.

Start the saw on the ground with the brake engaged. Keep both hands on the handles with secure footing, stand to the side of the saw rather than directly behind the bar, and never cut above shoulder height. Wear a hard hat, eye and hearing protection, gloves, steel-toed boots, and chainsaw chaps. If you’re comparing saws and want electric power, our tested roundup of the best electric chainsaw for cutting trees breaks down the options that suit homeowner felling work.

FAQs

What size chainsaw do I need to cut a tree down?

Is it safe to cut down a tree alone?

No. Mississippi State Extension and OSHA both emphasize never working alone when felling trees. A second person keeps bystanders clear, watches the canopy, and can get help if you are injured. Low-risk limbing of a downed tree is different from felling a standing one.

What is the difference between a notch cut and a back cut?

The notch, or undercut, is the wedge-shaped cut on the side of the tree facing the direction you want it to fall. The back cut is made on the opposite side, slightly above the notch’s hinge point, and stops short of the hinge wood that steers the tree down.