Dermaplaning removes peach fuzz and dead skin with a small blade held at a 45-degree angle on clean, dry skin.
If you’ve been wondering how to use a dermaplaning tool without nicking yourself or causing irritation, the process is simpler than it looks. Done right, it leaves skin smoother and helps your serums absorb better. Here’s the exact method.
Prep Your Face and Tools
Start with a completely clean, dry face. Wash off all makeup, sunscreen, oil, and debris; any residue can make the blade drag or cause breakouts. Pat the skin dry and wait a minute to be sure there’s no lingering dampness.
If you’re using an electric tool, install a fresh tip or blade head and check the charge. To turn on a typical device, press and hold the power button for two seconds, then press again to select your desired intensity. Most tools offer two or three speed settings—start on the lowest one if you’re new.
The Core Technique: Angle and Stroke
This is where most people go wrong. Hold the blade at about a 45-degree angle against your skin—never perpendicular. Pull the skin taut with your non-dominant hand so the blade glides smoothly without tugging or catching.
Use short, light, downward strokes in the direction of hair growth. Avoid long strokes, fast movements, and heavy pressure; the blade does the work, not your hand. Make one pass over each area and move on—repeated passes over the same spot are the fastest route to irritation.
Work in Small Sections
Divide your face into manageable zones: cheeks, chin, upper lip, forehead, and jawline. Start on the forehead or cheekbone and move methodically across each area, lifting the blade between strokes.
Keep the skin taut the entire time. If the blade starts catching or tugging, you’re either at the wrong angle or pressing too hard—adjust rather than forcing it. Skip the eyelids and under-eye area entirely, and avoid active acne, open wounds, moles, or any irritated skin.
Aftercare and Common Mistakes
When you finish, wipe debris from the blade, dispose of single-use tips, and clean the tool according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Then apply a gentle moisturizer or soothing serum to calm the skin. Skip active ingredients like retinol, acids, or vitamin C in your immediate post-dermaplaning routine—freshly exposed skin absorbs aggressively and can sting.
The most common mistakes are easy to avoid once you know them:
- Dermaplaning on damp skin or using oily products beforehand—the face must be clean and dry.
- Pressing too hard or making repeated passes over one spot, which causes irritation.
- Holding the blade perpendicular to the skin, which increases the risk of nicks.
- Using long, fast strokes instead of short, controlled ones.
- Skipping tool cleaning between sessions, which invites bacteria onto your face.
If you’re deciding between tools, our roundup of the best electric dermaplaning tools compares the top models by speed settings, blade quality, and value so you can pick one that fits your routine.
| Step | Key Action | Critical Detail |
|---|---|---|
| Cleanse | Wash face fully | Skin must be completely dry |
| Hold taut | Pull skin tight | Non-dominant hand does this |
| Angle | Position blade at 45° | Never perpendicular |
| Stroke | Short, light, downward | Direction of hair growth |
| Sections | Forehead, cheeks, chin, lip | Avoid eyes and broken skin |
| Finish | Clean tool, apply moisturizer | Skip active ingredients |
One honest note on technique: sources differ slightly on whether short downward strokes or side-to-side motions work best, but the unanimous guidance is short, feathery strokes with almost no pressure. CNN Underscored’s dermaplaning guide demonstrates the 45-degree angle in practice. Some products also recommend an optional patch test if you plan to apply oil beforehand, but the safest approach is dry skin with zero slip products.
How often you dermaplane depends on your skin’s tolerance. If your skin feels sensitive or tight afterward, space sessions further apart and focus on hydration in between.
FAQs
Can you dermaplane over active acne?
No. Dermaplaning over active breakouts, open wounds, or irritated skin can spread bacteria and worsen inflammation. Wait until your skin is clear and healed before using the tool, and steer around any moles or raised bumps even when your skin is otherwise healthy.
Does dermaplaning make hair grow back thicker?
No. Dermaplaning only cuts the hair at the surface; it doesn’t change the follicle or the hair’s texture. Regrowth may feel slightly blunt as it emerges, but it grows in the same thickness and color as before. That blunt-feeling phase typically passes within a week.
What should you apply right after dermaplaning?
Apply a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer or a simple soothing serum to calm freshly exposed skin. Avoid active ingredients like retinol, alpha-hydroxy acids, vitamin C, or any exfoliating acids for at least 24 hours, since your skin’s barrier is temporarily more vulnerable.
References & Sources
- CNN Underscored. “How to Dermaplane at Home, According to Dermatologists.” Details the 45-degree angle and feathery stroke technique.
- Consumer Reports. “Best Dermaplaning Tools.” Compares at-home devices by speed settings and design.
- Gillette. “How to Dermaplane at Home.” Offers step-by-step technique guidance for safe at-home use.
Mo Maruf
I created WellFizz to bridge the gap between vague wellness advice and actionable solutions. My mission is simple: to decode the research and give you practical tools you can actually use.
Beyond the data, I am a passionate traveler. I believe that stepping away from the screen to explore new environments is essential for mental clarity and physical vitality.