How to Get Rid of Earwigs? | Moisture, Traps & Exclusion

Earwigs are a nuisance, but they rarely cause lasting damage. The real mistake people make is reaching for a spray can first. The biology of earwigs is simple: they need moisture and shelter to survive. Cut off those two things, and you win. Here is the approach that extension services and health authorities agree on — fix the conditions first, trap the stragglers, and use chemicals only when nothing else works.

What Attracts Earwigs to Your Home and Garden

Earwigs are drawn to damp, dark places where they can hide during the day. Around the house, that means mulch, leaf litter, plant debris, wood piles, dense ground cover, cracks in the foundation, and areas near leaky faucets or poor drainage. Inside the home, they enter through gaps around doors, windows, and utility openings. The University of Minnesota Extension notes that they also feed on decaying organic matter, so a buildup of grass clippings and fallen leaves is an open invitation.

Nonchemical Controls That Actually Work

The core strategy from every reputable pest-control source — Health Canada, UC IPM, and the University of Minnesota Extension — is the same: remove the environment earwigs need, then trap the ones already there. Here are the steps that deliver results without pesticides.

Outside the Home

Trim vegetation and branches back from the foundation. Remove mulch and any debris touching the house — a bare strip of soil or gravel against the foundation makes a huge difference. Repair leaky outdoor taps and downspouts so water is directed away from the foundation. Improve drainage in low spots where water pools.

In Gardens and Flower Beds

Remove fallen leaves, weeds, old lumber, bricks, and other shelter. Thin or remove mulch so the soil surface can dry between waterings. Water deeply but less often — frequent shallow watering keeps the top layer of soil damp and ideal for earwigs. If you plant a vegetable garden, Health Canada suggests starting as early as possible so plants get a head start before young earwigs emerge in June.

Inside the Home

Vacuum or sweep up earwigs when you see them. Seal cracks and gaps around doors, windows, baseboards, and utility penetrations with caulk or weatherstripping. Make sure door sweeps are tight to the threshold.

For a curated list of products that handle the job, see our recommended earwig repellents and traps for gardens and foundations.

Traps: How to Make and Use Them

Traps are the second line of defense and they work well. The University of California’s Integrated Pest Management program and the University of Minnesota both recommend simple homemade options: rolled-up newspaper, bamboo tubes, short lengths of garden hose, or low-sided cans baited with a little vegetable oil or fish oil. Place them near plants, mulch, or other hiding spots just before dark. In the morning, dump the trapped earwigs into a bucket of soapy water.

UC IPM also recommends switching outdoor white lights to yellow bulbs. Yellow lights are far less attractive to earwigs, which cuts down on the number that gather near doors at night.

When Pesticides Are Worth Using

Pesticides are a last resort, not a first step. The University of Minnesota Extension says a liquid drench containing lambda-cyhalothrin can be applied to mulched areas where earwigs hide, and a granular bait such as carbaryl may be scattered around plants. Apply sprays only when you first notice damage, and — this is the binding rule — follow the label directions exactly. The label is the law for legal and safe use. Never apply any product to a site not listed on its label.

The most common mistake is leading with a spray while leaving the damp shelter conditions in place. That kills a few earwigs but does nothing to stop the next wave. Fix the environment, trap the population, and the problem shrinks on its own.