How to Clean My Washer | Deep Clean Step-By-Step

Your washer does the dirty work each week, but it needs its own deep clean to stay effective. Without regular maintenance, residue, mold, and mineral buildup can trap odors, mess up your laundry, and shorten the machine’s life. Cleaning a washer takes about two hours of mostly passive time — run a hot cycle with the right agent, wipe down the parts you can reach, and flush the system clean. Here is exactly how to do it for any front-load or top-load model.

What Cleaning Agent Works Best For Your Washer Type?

The agent you use depends on whether your machine loads from the front or the top, because the materials and mechanics differ. Front-load washers have a rubber door seal that degrades easily; top-loaders can handle stronger agents like bleach.

For front-load washers, use two affresh® tablets placed directly in the tub, or two cups of white vinegar poured into the liquid dispenser, plus two tablespoons each of borax and washing soda in the tub. Never use liquid chlorine bleach in a front-loader unless the owner’s manual explicitly says it is safe — bleach eats away at rubber seals and can cause leaks.

For top-load washers, drop one affresh® tablet or half a cup of liquid chlorine bleach into the tub. A quart of white vinegar works as an alternative for top-loaders.

If you want to compare products before buying, our cleaning washer product roundup breaks down the most effective tablets, powders, and tools for your specific machine.

The Complete Cleaning Process In Four Phases

Phase 1: Run The Tub Clean Cycle

Start with an empty, dry washer. Remove any lint, coins, or stray items from the drum. Place your cleaning agent directly into the tub — not the detergent drawer — unless the manual tells you otherwise. Select the “Clean Washer” or “Tub Clean” cycle if your machine has one; otherwise, pick the longest, hottest setting available (Normal or Heavy Duty works). Let it run all the way through. For a deeper clean on a front-loader using vinegar, pause the cycle after agitation starts, let it soak for 30 to 60 minutes, then resume.

Phase 2: Wipe Every Component Manually

The hot cycle does the heavy work, but mold and grime hide in parts the water never reaches. Pull out the detergent drawer until it stops, remove it if it lifts free, and soak it in hot soapy water for 15 to 20 minutes. Scrub the slots with an old toothbrush. On front-loaders, lift the edge of the rubber door seal and wipe the hidden interior surface where black mold tends to grow. Use a damp microfiber cloth with a splash of vinegar for stubborn residue on the drum and the glass.

Phase 3: Clean The Filter

Front-load washers have a pump filter behind a small access panel at the bottom front. Place a towel underneath, unscrew the cap, and pull out the trapped debris — this is where bobby pins and coins end up. Top-load washers have a lint filter; find it in your manual, remove it, and scrub it clean with hot water and a toothbrush.

Phase 4: Final Flush And Dry

Run one more hot-water cycle with no detergent to flush any loose residue out of the system. When it finishes, leave the door or lid open for several hours so the tub dries completely — a closed, damp washer is a breeding ground for mold within 24 hours.

Common Mistakes That Damage Your Washer

Three errors cause most cleaning-related washer problems. Mixing vinegar and bleach in the same cycle creates toxic chlorine gas; always run them in separate cycles if you use both. Using bleach in front-loaders without the manual’s permission degrades the rubber seal and can cause slow leaks.